Tsubaki Oil: The Japanese Beauty Secret Backed by Science

Camellia japonica, also known by its Japanese name Tsubaki.

For centuries, the women of Japan have relied on the red camellia, or Tsubaki, not just as a symbol of timeless elegance but as a core part of their skincare rituals. Extracted from the seeds of the Camellia japonica plant, Tsubaki oil is renowned for its luxurious texture, fast absorption, and rich nutrient profile. But this is more than ancient beauty wisdom as modern dermatological science is catching up, confirming its multifaceted benefits for skin health and ageing.

The beauty benefits of Tsubaki oil have been known for over a thousand years. During the Heian period in Japan, it was a beauty essential for aristocrats who prized long, glossy hair and luminous skin. In the Edo era, geishas famously used Tsubaki oil to protect and soften their skin while maintaining elaborate hairstyles. Even samurai used it to keep their hair strong and healthy beneath their helmets. This enduring legacy is a testament to the oil’s effectiveness, making it one of Japan’s most cherished beauty traditions.

Tsubaki oil is the cold-pressed oil obtained from the seeds of Camellia japonica, a flowering plant native to Japan and Korea. Unlike other plant oils, it contains a unique combination of fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants that closely resemble the skin’s natural lipid profile, making it highly compatible with human skin. Backed by modern dermatological research, this natural oil offers a range of benefits for the skin, from hydration to anti-ageing and brightening effects. Here's what the science says.

Hydration and Barrier Support

One of the most immediate effects of Tsubaki oil is its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and support the skin barrier. This is due to its high content of oleic acid and squalene—lipids that are very similar to those found naturally in our skin. Research has shown that the oil helps reduce transepidermal water loss and improves the expression of proteins essential for a healthy skin barrier, making it an excellent daily moisturiser that leaves the skin soft, supple, and well protected (Jung et al., 2020).

Anti-Inflammatory Action

Tsubaki oil is also a powerful natural anti-inflammatory agent. It helps calm irritated or reactive skin by suppressing inflammatory molecules such as TNF-α, IL-6, and nitric oxide. It also inhibits inflammatory signalling pathways like NF-κB and AP-1, which are associated with redness and chronic inflammation. These properties make it particularly useful for people with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema (Kim et al., 2012).

Collagen Support and Anti-Ageing

When it comes to anti-ageing, Tsubaki oil has been shown to promote the synthesis of type I collagen—the most abundant collagen in the skin—while simultaneously inhibiting the enzyme MMP-1, which breaks down collagen. The result is firmer, more elastic skin with fewer visible fine lines and wrinkles, as demonstrated in in vitro studies on human fibroblast cells (Jung et al., 2018).

Brightening and Tone Correction

Tsubaki oil also contributes to a more even and luminous complexion. Certain compounds in the oil can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme that plays a central role in the formation of melanin. Inhibiting tyrosinase activity reduces melanin production, which helps fade dark spots and discolouration, leading to a more balanced and brighter skin tone (Ha et al., 2017).

Antioxidant Protection

Lastly, the oil provides strong antioxidant protection. It contains a rich mix of vitamin E, polyphenols, and flavonoids that neutralize free radicals and shield the skin from environmental aggressors such as UV rays and pollution. These antioxidants help prevent premature ageing and keep the skin resilient, even under daily stress (Baumann, 2009).

For its proven benefits, including intense hydration, soothing effects, collagen support, antioxidant protection and skin brightening properties, we have included Tsubaki oil in the formulation of AQUA ALTA Skin Renew Oil to enhance skin health and radiance.

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Key Ingredients with Benefits

Component	Function in Skin Care	Benefit
Oleic Acid	Monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid; emollient; naturally found in sebum	Deep moisturization, improved skin elasticity, helps repair skin barrier
Squalene	Natural antioxidant and lipid; structurally similar to human sebum	Enhances hydration, protects from oxidative stress, supports barrier function
Palmitic Acid	Saturated fatty acid; part of skin’s natural lipids	Softens skin, reinforces lipid layer, supports skin structure
Stearic Acid	Saturated fatty acid; stabilizer and emollient	Enhances texture, protects against moisture loss
Polyphenols	Antioxidants derived from plant compounds	Neutralize free radicals, prevent premature ageing, reduce inflammation
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)	Lipid-soluble antioxidant	Protects against UV-induced damage, supports skin repair, enhances elasticity
Flavonoids	Plant-based bioactives with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity	Reduce inflammation, calm sensitive skin, protect against environmental stressors
Phytosterols	Plant-based sterols with skin-soothing properties	Help restore barrier, reduce redness, support wound healing
Linoleic Acid (C18:2)	Omega-6 essential fatty acid; important for ceramide synthesis	Strengthens barrier function, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), soothes dry skin

Scientific References

1. Jung J et al. (2020). Effect of Tsubaki (Camellia japonica) seed oil on skin barrier and hydration. Journal of Ethnopharmacology.

2. Kim S et al. (2012). Anti-inflammatory activity of Camellia japonica seed oil via inhibition of NF-κB and AP-1. Molecular Medicine Reports.

3. Jung J et al. (2018). Camellia japonica seed oil promotes procollagen synthesis and inhibits collagen degradation in human dermal fibroblasts. International Journal of Molecular Sciences.

4. Ha SY et al. (2017). Skin-whitening effect of Camellia japonica essential oil through tyrosinase inhibition in B16 melanoma cells. Toxicological Research.

5. Baumann LS. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.