Bakuchiol: Can a Plant-Based Active Rival Retinol?
Updated: Aug 7
Bakuchiol has become one of skincare’s most talked-about ingredients and is frequently presented as a natural alternative to retinol. The comparison is useful, but not entirely accurate. Bakuchiol is not a retinoid or a form of vitamin A. It is a plant-derived compound, traditionally obtained from Cullen corylifolium, that appears to influence some of the same processes involved in skin renewal and visible ageing.
What Bakuchiol Does in the Skin
Laboratory research suggests that bakuchiol can support collagen-related proteins, reduce processes involved in collagen breakdown and provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Although its chemical structure is completely different from retinol, it may produce some similar effects in the skin through different biological pathways (Chaudhuri and Bojanowski, 2014; Bluemke et al., 2022).
The Clinical Evidence
The most widely cited clinical study compared bakuchiol directly with retinol. In this randomized, double-blind trial, 44 participants used either 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily or 0.5% retinol once daily for 12 weeks. Both groups experienced significant improvements in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them. Retinol users, however, reported more scaling and stinging (Dhaliwal et al., 2019).
Bakuchiol | Retinol | |
Study concentration | 0.5%, twice daily | 0.5%, once daily |
Study duration | 12 weeks | 12 weeks |
Wrinkles and pigmentation | Significant improvement | Significant improvement |
Tolerability | Less scaling and stinging | More scaling and stinging |
Key distinction | Plant-derived compound, not a retinoid | Vitamin A derivative |
In this study, both ingredients improved wrinkles and pigmentation, but bakuchiol was generally better tolerated (Dhaliwal et al., 2019).
These findings suggest that bakuchiol may offer visible retinol-like benefits while being easier for some people to tolerate. They do not prove that it is identical to retinol or equivalent to stronger prescription retinoids. The study was relatively small, lasted only 12 weeks and compared two particular formulations used at different frequencies. Earlier research also found that 0.5% bakuchiol improved fine lines, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness after 12 weeks. Laboratory testing from the same study showed changes in genes linked to collagen production and skin structure, helping to explain the visible results (Chaudhuri and Bojanowski, 2014).
More recent experimental work supports these findings. Bakuchiol was shown to increase several collagen-related proteins while also displaying antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in laboratory skin models. These results provide a convincing biological explanation for its potential benefits, although laboratory effects do not always translate directly into visible changes in real skin (Bluemke et al., 2022).
Bakuchiol for Blemish-Prone Skin
Bakuchiol is also being studied for acne because of its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibacterial properties. A small clinical study involving people with mild to moderate acne reported improvements in inflammatory blemishes and post-acne pigmentation after using a cream containing 0.5% bakuchiol for 12 weeks (Brownell et al., 2021). The findings are promising, particularly for people who find conventional acne treatments too drying. However, the study included only 13 participants and did not use a placebo group. Bakuchiol may therefore be a useful supportive ingredient for mild blemishes, but it should not yet be considered a replacement for established treatments for persistent, severe or scarring acne.
A Gentler Alternative to Retinol
Bakuchiol’s greatest practical advantage may be its tolerability. In the direct comparison with retinol, it caused less scaling and stinging while producing similar improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation over the 12-week study period (Dhaliwal et al., 2019). This balance of visible skin-renewing benefits and gentleness is why we included bakuchiol in AQUA ALTA Skin Renew Oil, where it supports smoother, firmer and more even-looking skin. This may make it particularly appealing to people with dry, reactive or sensitive skin. Nevertheless, gentle does not mean completely free from irritation. Anyone with highly reactive skin should therefore test a new product on a small area before applying it regularly to the face.
How to Use Bakuchiol
The strongest clinical evidence currently supports leave-on products containing around 0.5% bakuchiol, used consistently for approximately 12 weeks. It can generally be applied in the morning or evening. Those with sensitive skin may prefer to begin once daily or every other day before increasing the frequency. As with most skincare actives, results develop gradually. Bakuchiol works best as part of a consistent routine rather than as a quick solution. Daily sunscreen remains essential, particularly when the goal is to improve pigmentation or visible signs of sun-related ageing. Bakuchiol is not a retinoid, but dedicated studies confirming its safety during pregnancy are lacking. Claims that it is definitively pregnancy-safe should therefore be treated with caution, and regular use during pregnancy should be discussed with a doctor, pharmacist or midwife.
The Verdict
Bakuchiol is more than a passing skincare trend, but it should not be described as plant-based retinol. It is a separate compound that appears to achieve some similar cosmetic effects through different mechanisms. Current evidence suggests that it may help improve fine lines, firmness and uneven pigmentation while causing less irritation than retinol. Its potential benefits for blemish-prone skin are encouraging, although they remain supported by much smaller studies. A 2024 systematic review identified 15 human clinical trials involving bakuchiol formulations but also highlighted major differences in product composition, study design and outcome measurements. The overall evidence is promising, although still far less extensive than the decades of research available for retinoids (Fanning, McGee and Ibrahim, 2024). For people who cannot tolerate retinol, or who prefer a gentler botanical active, bakuchiol is one of the most scientifically interesting alternatives currently available.
Scientific References
Chaudhuri, R. K. and Bojanowski, K. (2014). “Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), 221–230.
Dhaliwal, S. et al. (2019). “Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing.” British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296.
Brownell, L. et al. (2021). “A clinical study evaluating the efficacy of topical bakuchiol cream on facial acne.” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 20(3), 307–310.
Bluemke, A. et al. (2022). “Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing: experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44, 377–393.
Fanning, J. E., McGee, S. A. and Ibrahim, O. I. (2024). “Human clinical trials using topical bakuchiol formulations for the treatment of skin disorders: a systematic review.” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 23(4), 239–243.
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